How To Paint A Military Soldier From Ww2 In Acrylic

How To Paint A Military Soldier From Ww2 In Acrylic – A few years ago, in collaboration with Heer46 miniatures and the PaintingWar editorial group, I prepared some miniature painting guides featuring WWII German soldiers in 28mm. Now, you can download some for free! In this post you will find how to paint a German soldier in a Kharkov parka, while in another I explain how to paint Gebirsjägers.

In each guide you will find a short step-by-step tutorial for painting the different parts of the miniatures, followed by a painting sheet showing color charts, painting tips and some historical facts about the three different miniatures. These mini-guides are very similar to the ones you can find in the PaintingWar book, as they are created with the same structure.

How To Paint A Military Soldier From Ww2 In Acrylic

If you like this painting guide, you can request a third painting guide about Fallschirmjäger from the Heer46 webpage; or you can get the German WWII Painting War book which includes dozens of painting guides as well as nearly 40 unique painting sheets. You can find a review of the book here. And, if you like the Spanish Civil War, don’t miss this other book.

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Alternatively, you can directly read step by step here. I noticed that my English in the original mini guide is a little bit broken. You can find the updated version below. All color references are from Vallejo.

First, we remove the casting line with a model knife and file. We can wash the figure with soap and water to remove the release agent from the molding process. I usually prepare the base now with modeling putty and some natural rocks. Alternatively, you can use glue sand using PVA. Before starting the painting process we need to apply a primer. This is important because it not only facilitates the application of the paint, but increases its durability (since we will be playing with the model, this is very important). I prefer to use an airbrush or spray instead of a brush because the undercoat layer is thinner and more homogeneous. With the brush, we accidentally cover some details or create strange textures. And I love using a gray primer because other colors cover it well.

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Also, I like to paint the base now because we can easily apply the dry brush without damaging the painted model. I usually use brownish and yellowish colors, and I paint the rocks in gray to get some contrast.

Probably the most interesting element of the model. The color of the Kharkov parka used to be gray-green, although depending on the manufacturer, use, etc., the color can vary. Remember that it is very important to thin acrylic paint with water, because it will be easier to apply and we can create a good blending effect between the layers.

War Game Miniatures Wwii, German Soldiers Stock Photo

My painting style follows the layering method (or painting with layers), which means I apply five layers, from shadow to light. Schematically, it looks like this:

The intermediate color is the result of mixing the two flank colors. For example, intermediate 1 is a mixture of color and base color in equal proportions (50%/50%). The combination of multiple layers and diluted paint can create a smooth transition or gradient from shadow to light. You can simplify this method and use only three colors (triad system): shade > base > light. This will save time at the expense of “smoothness”.

After the layering method, we can start painting the color of the parka with the 979 German Cam. Dark green then mixed progressively with 336 Afrika Korps Tank Crews. The final highlight is done in pure 336. You can also use white for the highlight, although by using white you lose the green color value. That is, the final color will be a slightly greenish gray. By using a lighter green we can keep the green color. You can play with this and try different combinations even in the same unit: some parkas can be greener, others gray and others brown. For a browner color you can use 879 Green brown as a shade.

, will cover most of the surface, except for the old area where we keep 979 colors. Consecutively, for each new layer we will increase the proportion of 336 and paint a small area. The final highlight is just a thin line or dot at the end of the highlighted area. The models have very nice sculpted wrinkles, and that’s why we just have to follow the sculpts: the final highlight will be placed on the more protuberant parts and the edges of the park. Remember to thin the paint with water, and not completely cover the previous layer when applying the next one. To create a gradient or smooth transition effect, all layers must be visible, from the shadow to the final highlight. Finally, you can reuse the shade color, 979, to repaint some dark areas if necessary.

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Amm7039 Ammo By Mig Paint Set

When painting white, we have two color options: gray or beige. Here, I used the latter because it’s a warm color (full of red and a little bit of yellow), and I prefer it to look like. Remember that pure white does not exist in nature, but it appears to be always colored with other colors (for example, think of a blue iceberg). So I usually use 918 ivory instead of pure white. Following the same idea we discussed earlier for green, you can mix 821 and 921 progressively and use pure ivory for the final highlight.

Before painting the details, such as the gun, strap, holster and others, we can apply a black profile. For me it’s easier if I paint all the elements with black. Otherwise, use a thin brush to paint thin lines on each element of the figure. The idea is to separate each section with a black line. Don’t confuse black layers with shades. The black profile separates the two different elements, but not to simulate color. The goal is to achieve contrast and definition.

To paint the black leather of the boots and straps we can use 950 Black. When highlighting this color, we must do it carefully, because if we are too far from the light, we can accidentally make it gray instead of black. And we don’t want to! So, we can just apply some subtle highlights by mixing black with a little pink. Yes, you read that right. Instead of white or gray, we can use pink. Pink contains red, warm color; and therefore, the lamp will be warm, and to some extent, more natural. We can focus on the corners of different sculpted parts.

We can follow the same instructions to paint gloves. But the gloves are really gray! Thus we only need to increase the proportion of pink. In this case, we can apply the light on the knuckles and fingertips. Regarding the scarf, we can use white instead of pink to get a different black/dark gray color. Note that it is also important to add some chromatic variation.

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Wwii Japanese Army Infantry Tamiya 1/35 Building, Painting, Plastic Model

To paint the wooden parts, we started by painting the entire surface with 984 Brown Flat. When applying highlights, we can simulate a veined effect by painting horizontal lines using 981 Orange Brown. Next, we can do another black profile to separate the metal from the wooden part. Then, we can paint the metal with 863 Metal Grey, followed by a black wash with Nuln oil (Citadel) or just thinned black paint.

For each element we can start applying a color shade. If we do not have the right color or a dark color, we can always mix the basic color with black. To paint the gas mask tube we can use 830 German Fieldgrey WWII. First, we paint this fixture with a mixture of 830 and black in equal proportions; and after applying the shade, we apply pure 830 in sculpted relief. You can use a horizontal brush instead of a tip to easily paint the metal relief. Finally, we can apply a single highlight by mixing 830 with ivory in equal proportions. We can use the same color to paint the beaker in the canteen. To paint the water bottle we can use 984 Brown Flat. After mixing 984 with black in the same proportion, we apply pure 984. Then, we can apply one light with 984 and a little bit of 981 Orange Brown. We can paint the lights on the top of the bottle. Finally, to paint the bread bag we can use 872 Chocolate Brown, then apply the highlight under the wrinkles by mixing 872 with ivory.

To paint black straps, holsters and shovel cases we can follow the same recipe used for black boots. We can use pale brown to simulate the wood of the shovel handle. For example, 977 Desert Yellow. Note that the parka has a fleece lining

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